Oven and stove repair in Fort Myers and Bonita Springs
Call before 11 AM and we aim to be there the same day.
The service call fee is waived when you go ahead with the repair.
Fort Myers area
Punta Gorda, Pine Island, Cape Coral, Fort Myers, Sanibel, Fort Myers Beach
Bonita Springs and Naples area
Estero, Bonita Springs, North Naples, Naples, Marco Island
Range and oven faults, gas and electric
The dual-fuel range on the drawing has a gas cooktop and an electric oven, so its burners follow the gas column and its oven the electric one. An all-gas or all-electric range follows one column.
- Gas range or oven
- Most gas ovens light with a glow-bar igniter, which has to draw enough current to open the gas safety valve. An aging igniter still glows orange but no longer draws enough, so the valve stays shut and the oven stays cold. We measure the igniter current, replace it, and test the valve if the igniter checks out.
- Electric range or oven
- The bake element at the bottom has burned through, often with a blister or a split you can see, or the relay on the control board no longer switches it on. We measure the element and the voltage the board sends to it. Hidden elements under the oven floor are reached from the back of the range.
- Gas range or oven
- Clicking with no flame: a spark electrode that is wet, cracked or dirty, a burner cap sitting crooked, or ports clogged after a boil-over. Clicking that goes on with the knob off means moisture in a switch or a failing spark module. We clean and dry the burner, then test the electrode, the switches and the module.
- Electric range or oven
- On coil tops, a burned-out coil or a scorched receptacle. On smooth glass tops, a failed radiant element, its limiter, or the switch behind the knob. On induction, the zone may not sense the pan at all. We test each part in that chain and replace the one that failed.
- Gas range or oven
- A temperature sensor whose resistance has drifted, an igniter so weak that each relight comes late, or a worn door gasket letting heat escape. Older ranges with a dial thermostat lose calibration. We check the sensor against the chart for the model, around 1,100 ohms at room temperature on many, then the gasket and the hinges.
- Electric range or oven
- The same sensor drift, or a relay stuck closed on the board that keeps an element on past the setting. Pale bottoms and dark tops often mean the bake element has died and the broil element is doing all the work. Many digital controls let you shift the temperature by about 30°F either way, which corrects a small drift without any parts.
- Gas range or oven
- A gas range needs only a standard 120-volt outlet. With power at the outlet and a dark display, the control board, its transformer or a fuse is next. Most error codes point to the sensor, the door lock or the touch pad rather than the board. We read the code, test those parts, and replace the board only when they check out.
- Electric range or oven
- An electric range runs on 240 volts through a double breaker. If one half trips, or a wire burns at the terminal block behind the range, the clock can stay on while the oven and the burners stay cold or heat weakly. We measure both legs at the terminal block before anyone blames the board.
- Gas range or oven
- The cycle runs close to 900°F. Afterwards the lock motor or its switch can fail, or the board still reads the oven as hot and keeps the door shut. We release the door, find which part failed and replace it.
- Electric range or oven
- The same lock and switches, plus a thermal fuse or limiter on many models that opens during the cycle and leaves the oven dead with the door locked. We restore it and tell you whether running self-clean again is wise on that model.
- Gas range or oven
- A brief smell as a burner or the oven lights is normal. A smell that lingers means gas is escaping or a burner did not light: turn the knobs off, open windows, leave the house and call your gas or propane supplier from outside. Once they have cleared it, the range stays off until the leak or the burner that failed to light is repaired.
- Electric range or oven
- A faint smell the first time an element heats after cleaning is normal. Sparks at an element, or a sharp smell of hot plastic, mean a shorted element or a burnt wire: turn off the breaker and leave it off. We replace the element and the damaged terminal or wire.
- Gas range or oven
- The convection fan motor or its relay on the board has failed, or a rubbing sound from the back wall means a worn bearing or a loose blade. We test the motor and the relay and replace whichever failed.
- Electric range or oven
- The same fan and relay. A true-convection oven also has a heating ring around the fan; if the fan turns but convection bake stays cool, that ring has burned out. We test the ring and the fan and replace the faulty one.
Cooking in Southwest Florida homes
Propane tanks, sea air, hard water and a kitchen that sits idle half the year all leave their mark on a range.
Propane or natural gas
A gas range here may burn propane from a tank or natural gas from a utility line, and it has to be set up for the one it gets: on the wrong orifices the flames burn yellow, lift off the burners or leave soot on the pans. After a move or a new range, have the setup checked.
Damp air and spark igniters
June to September
Humidity and boil-overs keep spark electrodes damp. A burner that clicks for a few seconds before it lights in summer, or clicks by itself after you mop the cooktop, usually dries out within a day. If it keeps happening on dry days, a switch or the spark module is failing.
Salt air near the water
On Marco Island, Sanibel and Fort Myers Beach, salt air pits burner bases and grates, dulls igniter tips and corrodes the wiring behind the oven, worst where the sliders to the lanai stay open.
Hard water in steam ovens
Steam and combination ovens from Wolf, Thermador and Miele scale up quickly on our hard water. A steam oven that makes little steam or keeps asking to be descaled often needs descaling, not a part, so keep to the schedule in its manual.
The season starts in the kitchen
Many ovens sit idle all summer, then cook for a full house from Thanksgiving on. Bake something in October: a weak igniter or a cracked element shows itself then, not on the holiday. Skip the self-clean cycle the week before guests arrive; that is when old sensors, locks and boards give out.
Power outages
June to November
During an outage most gas cooktop burners can be lit with a long match (check your manual first), but a gas oven with a glow-bar igniter will not run without power. When the power comes back after a storm, set the clock and test the bake: surges hit boards and touch pads first.
Range, oven and cooktop brands we repair
Freestanding, slide-in and pro-style ranges, wall ovens and cooktops: gas, electric and dual-fuel.
High-end brands
High-end appliances: parts are covered by a 1-year warranty.
Everyday brands
3-month warranty on labor for all appliances except high-end.
- Café
Brand names and logos belong to their owners. SUNTECH is an independent repair service.
Safe checks at the range
They take a few minutes, need no tools, and rule out the causes that need no parts at all.
Control lock and special modes
Make sure the control lock is off and no delay start, timed bake or Sabbath mode is still set. Any of them can make the oven ignore the Bake key.
Both halves of the breaker
For an electric range, switch its double breaker fully off, then back on. A breaker that tripped on one side can still look like it is on.
Gas supply
For a gas range, check that the shut-off valve behind it is open and that other gas appliances work. On propane, look at the tank gauge.
Burner caps and ports
With the cooktop cool, lift each cap, wipe and dry the base, clear blocked ports with a straight pin (not a toothpick, which can snap off inside), and set the cap back flat.
An oven thermometer
Set 350°F, put an oven thermometer at the center of the middle rack, and read it every ten minutes after the preheat signal. Swings of 15 to 25 degrees around the setting are normal cycling; an average far from 350°F is not.
After a self-clean
If the door is still locked, let the oven cool completely, then switch its breaker off for a minute. On many models the lock lets go when the power returns.
Not a do-it-yourself job
A smell of gas that does not clear: leave the house first, then call 911 or your gas or propane supplier from outside. Do not switch lights or appliances on or off on the way out.
Converting a range between natural gas and propane on your own. The orifices and the regulator have to be changed and the flames checked by someone qualified for gas work; a mistake means soot, carbon monoxide or a fire.
A cracked glass cooktop: stop using it. Spills can run through the crack onto live parts underneath.
Pulling a range out without hooking it back onto its anti-tip bracket, or sliding a wall oven out of its cabinet. Wall ovens are heavy and wired straight into the house.
Oven and range questions
Can I use the cooktop while the oven is broken?
Usually yes, if the fault is in the oven igniter, the bake element or the sensor. Not if there is a smell of gas or burning, sparks, a cracked glass top, or a breaker that keeps tripping.
Why does my gas oven take so long to light?
With a glow-bar igniter, 30 to 90 seconds between pressing Bake and seeing a flame is normal: the igniter has to get hot enough to open the valve. Much longer than that, or a flame that lights with a whoosh, means the igniter is weak and should be replaced.
Should I run the self-cleaning cycle?
On a newer range, follow the manual, take the racks out if it says to, and stay home while it runs. On an older range, or right before a holiday, clean by hand or use the steam-clean setting. If the door stays locked or the oven dies during the cycle, call us rather than forcing the latch.
My induction cooktop will not heat. What should I check?
First the pan: a magnet must stick firmly to its base. A hum or a light ticking with some pans is normal. An error with every pan, a zone that keeps switching itself off, or a cooktop that trips its breaker points to the power board, the cooling fan or a coil, and that is work for a technician.
Where is the model number on a range?
Usually on a label behind the storage or broiler drawer, or on the frame you see when the oven door is open. Wall ovens have it on that frame too, and built-in cooktops underneath. A photo of the label, sent by text, is the quickest way to get it to us.
What does the service call cost?
We tell you the fee when you call. If you go ahead with the repair, the service call fee is waived.
What warranty do I get?
3 months on labor for all appliances except high-end. On high-end appliances, parts are covered for 1 year.
How can I pay?
Card, check or cash.
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If it cannot wait
Call before 11 AM and we aim to be there the same day.
Fort Myers area
Bonita Springs and Naples area